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FASHION FEATURE

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Meet New York's Hottest New Shoe Designers, Part 2: Due Farina, Kristen Lee and Charlotte Ronson

By Lauren David Peden

Fashion Wire Daily December 15,2004 - NEW YORK - Today FWD presents three more up-and-coming shoe designers based in New York making a name for themselves in speciality stores (and online) nationwide.

Designer - MARINA ROSIN, 27, AND FABIANA RIGAMONTI, 23, of DUE FARINA

Home Base - Midtown Manhattan (Rosin), Milan Italy (Rigamonti)

Why Shoes? - "I was always doing design work and artwork but I started to steer clear of it as I got older because I felt I needed something more practical," says Rosin, a graduate of Cornell Hotel School. "Fabiana and I were always looking for shoes that didn't seem to exist — something elegant that celebrated the foot as well as the leg. When we couldn't find what we were looking for we decided to make it ourselves."

Making Tracks Since - Due Farina launched in fall 2004 and will hit stores in February 2005 (made in Italy)

Previous Engagement - Rosin worked for Starwood and Ian Schrager Hotels then did a stint as a sales associate for a bridesmaid dress designer ("So cheesy," she moans). Rigamonti worked in sales and PR at Sharra Pagano, a company that makes costume jewelry lines for Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, et al.

"When I worked at the Royalton, that's when I knew I was going back into fashion 100 percent because we used to get a lot of guests that were here for the fashion week shows and it just brought me back to what I always wanted to do," says Rosin. "So I quit and got a job in fashion."

She and Rigamonti, who was visiting NYC on a student visa, took Howard Davis' shoe design course at Parsons together in 2002.

Sole Style - She Says: "Due Farina is elegant but for a funkier customer. We like to layer textures and add as much color and lively attitude as we can without being gaudy. It's definitely an after-hours shoe. Also, it was important for us to have an original silhouette, so we take a preexisting shape like a pump but really cut [it into] a unique line around the foot that is still flattering."

FWD Says: Eye candy for the feet, these sexy-yet-comfy pumps and strappy sandals feature va-va-va voom ruffles, metallic snakeskin, flirty bows and unusual materials (karung, fish skin, gold-plated wire and brass). Yummy.

Price Fixe - $350 to $450

Customer 411 - "They're for a social girl and a social woman. We don't have one single dull color. So it has to be someone who is not bashful, who likes to go out at night and likes to travel, because a lot of the materials we use are not necessarily trendy. So [the customer] has to be pretty worldly and [want] something that isn't on a typical department store rack."

Celeb Clientele - Gwen Stefani, Lauryn Hill, VH1's Rachel Perry

Fave Shoe Designer - "I would have to say the best in terms of style and comfort is Christian Louboutin. A lot of the other designers have style but they're not a three-hour shoe. I like shoes that are sexy and comfortable at the same time."

Ugg Boots: Yea or Nay? - "Way nay, unless you are a 13-year-old girl, and even then you should think twice. The Eskimo look is way out, unless you actually are a Siberian Eskimo."

Where to Find ‘Em - Paper Dolls NY, Otto Tootsie Plohound and 30 Vandam in February 2005. Can't wait? You can pre-order the spring 2005 collection online at www.duefarina.com.

Designer - KRISTEN LEE, 26

Home Base - Lower East Side

Why Shoes? - "I've just always been really into shoes personally," says Lee, a Parsons grad who studied shoemaking in Florence. "It was just a matter of trying to find the right production [factory], which was kind of difficult."

Making Tracks Since - Spring 2003 (made in Italy)

Previous Engagement - Earned an International Business degree from NYU and studied fashion design at Parsons. Worked as a freelance stylist and as a clothing designer for Theory.

Sole Style - She Says: "They are cute, cool, fun, colorful and sexy in a nonchalant, non-overt way. I take my styling cues from what I wear and the general pulse of the Lower East Side."

FWD Says: They're all that and more. And while Lee's debut collection proved that she loves the ‘80s (think: New Wave striped stilettos and Vans-inspired checks), her more recent lines have shown a newfound sophistication while losing none of her signature sass. To wit: this season's tough luxe suede and leather "worker boot" with wrapped-heel detail, and next spring's multihued cotton canvas platform wedges. The rubber sole and shock-absorbing foam insert in Lee's heels ensures that they feel as good as they look.

Price Fixe - $250 to $500

Customer 411 - "I design for young urban girls — the New York girl, the LA girl, the London girl and the Tokyo girl" she says. "Downtown girls who like to have fun with accessories."

Celeb Clientele - Kirsten Dunst, Zooey Deschanel, Karen O, Eve, Pink.

Fave Shoe Designer - "I love Ferragamo. Historically, I have a lot of respect for the brand and for him; he's very innovative. And Manolo Blahnik, as well. There is a lot to learn there."

Ugg Boots: Yea or Nay? - I'm going to say nay definitely but then I'm going to contradict myself," she told FWD with a laugh. "I was so against buying a pair but I pinched a nerve in my foot recently while walking around another city and the doctor told me I had to either get off my feet for a week or wear really smushy shoes. So I ended up buying a pair of Ugg boots only a month ago. I was mortified but I have to say they are the most comfortable thing I have ever worn. All my friends were making fun of me and I was like, ‘I can't help it, it's a medical condition.' So they're my guilty indulgence."

Where to Find ‘Em - 32 shops internationally, including Chuckies, Steven Alan, American Rag and online at www.girlshop.com and www.kristen-lee.com.

Designer - CHARLOTTE RONSON, 27

Home Base - Nolita

Why Shoes? - "I started designing shoes for a friend who was starting the flipfloptrunkshow website," Ronson told us. "I thought it would be fun and a nice change from the clothing, [and they] can all work together."

Making Tracks Since - Launched her first shoe line in 2000 (made in Hong Kong)

Previous Engagement - Designs a line of eponymous clothing

Sole Style - She says: "Fun, feminine, comfort. We're known for our traditional espadrilles and our suede wedges with extra padded soles. I always try to add in fun colors and unique details along with comfort, which is what a shoe is all about — cause if one can't wear it, what's the point?"

FWD Says: Cool-girl kicks with a back to the future ‘70s flavor, as witnessed by spring 2005's perforated leather "Annabelle" wedge and strappy crocheted espadrille.

Price Fixe - $18 to $165

Customer 411 - "Anyone who feels good about purchasing one of my products."

Celeb Clientele - Kate Hudson, Sharon Stone, Cameron Diaz, Rachel Bilson, Taryn Manning, J. Lo.

Fave Shoe Designer - "I like Mayle for the details — the wedge with all of the great color combinations and stitching. Kors boots are so comfy and I love the new silver wedges with turquoise and beads, and Prada are so beautiful and special-looking, especially the gold and leather strappy shoes and the colorful woven leather heels."

Ugg Boots: Yea or Nay? - "Nay. Uggs are comfortable, but there are too many out there. I like to try and keep my own individual style as much as possible, especially being a twin."

Where to Find ‘Em - More than 75 boutiques worldwide, including Modern Romance, Sway, Kitson, Tracey Ross, online at www.girlshop.com, www.flipfloptrunkshow.com and at Ronson's eponymous boutique at 239 Mulberry Street; 212-625-9074; www.cronson.com.



Other 'fashion feature' articles:

 • Walking Tall: Meet New York's Hottest New Shoe Designers, Part three: RINA SHAH and EUGENIA KIM


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